Hiking the Routeburn Track

The Routeburn Track can be walked from either The Divide or Routeburn Shelter, and both directions have their own charm. I chose to start from The Divide, which is a popular choice if you are organising transport and want a gradual build-up through the alpine sections. The day was all blue skies and bright, clear weather perfect for walking, but not ideal for photography, with harsh light and limited cloud cover.

On the first two days, my partner and I moved much slower than the DOC suggested times. We took our time taking in the scenery, stopping for photos, and just enjoying being out on the track. It was refreshing not to be rushed, and it gave us space to really appreciate the environment.

Lake Howden

Lake Howden is one of the first natural stopping points when starting from The Divide, tucked just off the main track in a sheltered beech forest basin. The lake sits at around 740 metres above sea level and was formed by glacial activity, like much of the Routeburn valley. Its quiet, enclosed feel contrasts with the more open alpine sections further along.

The area is also known for the former Lake Howden Hut, which was destroyed by a landslide in 2020 after prolonged heavy rain. No one was injured, but the event is a reminder of how dynamic Fiordland’s terrain can be. Without the hut, it is more of a short pause than a place to linger.

Earland Falls

Further along, Earland Falls marks a noticeable change in scale. At around 174 metres high, it is one of the taller waterfalls on the Routeburn Track, dropping in a series of tiers rather than a single plunge.

Fed by alpine catchments higher up the valley, the falls are especially impressive after rain, when the flow increases and spray fills the surrounding bush. Even in bright, settled conditions, the constant sound and movement make it a standout stop. Harsh sunlight made photography tricky, but it is still a spot worth slowing down for.

Cascading water streams down the moss-covered rocky face of Earland Falls along the Routeburn Track.

Lake Mackenzie

Lake Mackenzie, at roughly 1,150 metres above sea level, sits in a broad glacial basin and is one of the main overnight stops on the track. The surrounding landscape shows clear evidence of past glaciation, with smoothed rock faces and a wide, open valley shape.

The lake is known for calm reflections in low light, which makes early morning or late evening ideal for photography. In strong midday sun, it felt more subdued, but it is still a key marker on the Routeburn and a natural place to stop, rest, and take stock of the journey so far.

A serene view of Lake Mackenzie along the Routeburn Track, with jagged peaks reflecting in the tranquil waters against a backdrop of rugged mountains and a subtly glowing sky.

Harris Saddle

At Harris Saddle, the track reaches its highest point at around 1,255 metres above sea level, crossing the main divide between Fiordland National Park and Mount Aspiring National Park. Here, the environment shifts from dense forest to a more exposed alpine landscape.

The saddle is often windy and can feel very different in poor weather, which is why it is considered one of the most weather-dependent parts of the Routeburn. On a clear day, the views open out in multiple directions, making it obvious why it is a highlight of the track.

Majestic view of Lake Harris nestled among rugged mountain peaks along the Routeburn Track, under a clear blue sky.

Routeburn Flats

Descending toward Routeburn Flats, the track follows the Route Burn river into a wide, open valley. The flats are shaped by braided river channels and seasonal flooding, which keep the area open and prevent forest from taking hold.

This section feels calmer and more spacious after the higher alpine terrain, making it a fitting way to finish the walk. It is less about dramatic scenery and more about a sense of scale and openness, which is refreshing after the alpine climbs.

Majestic mountains tower over the lush greenery and meandering streams of Routeburn Flats, creating a serene and breathtaking landscape.

Transport and logistics

For a one-way walk, I used Tracknet to organise transport. It made starting at The Divide and finishing elsewhere straightforward, without the need to backtrack or juggle vehicles. If you are walking the Routeburn point to point, this is by far the simplest way to handle logistics.

Photography gear on the track

I carried a Canon R5 paired with a Tamron 24–70mm lens, along with NiSi JetMag filters and an Ulanzi travel tripod. The focal range covered most situations without swapping lenses, which was handy on a long day.

In the bright conditions, the filters were mainly for controlling contrast rather than creating dramatic effects, and the tripod saw limited use. Still, having a lightweight, flexible setup made it easy to stop and shoot when something caught my eye.

Final thoughts

Walking the Routeburn Track was an amazing experience and a perfect introduction to New Zealand’s Great Walks. Despite moving slower than the suggested times on the first two days, my partner and I had plenty of time to enjoy the scenery, take photos, and soak in the changing landscapes.

Blue skies made for comfortable hiking, and even if the conditions weren’t perfect for dramatic photography, the track itself is stunning and rewarding at every stage. From Lake Howden to Earland Falls, Lake Mackenzie, Harris Saddle, and Routeburn Flats, I thoroughly enjoyed every part of the journey. It was a truly memorable first Great Walk, and I can’t wait to explore more of New Zealand’s incredible trails.